Traditional Art of Jamdani Weaving

Introduction and Background 

When anyone thinks about a Bengali woman, he imagines her draped in a saree. Saree takes an important place in the life of Bengali women that they can not picture their life without it. In Bangladesh, among all the sarees, the most popular and well-known is the Jamdani saree. The word 'Jamdani' derives from Persian language. In Persian, 'Jam' means fabric while buti or diapering is known as 'dana'. Thus 'Jamdani' refers to embroidered clothing. Jamdani saree mainly originates from the Dhaka region. And it is made by designing on Muslin; a soft fabric, which flourished in the Dhaka district as well. Jamdani and muslin were introduced around the same time. Jamdani became popular during the Mughal period. Jamdani weaving reached its pinnacle of development during the Mughal era, which was considered to be its golden age. The famous traveller Ibn Battuta admired the textile industry of Sonargaon, mentioning muslin and Jamdani in his travelogue. However, all Jamdani sarees' famed and unique motifs and weaves are now nearly extinct. The industry now covers approximately 155 villages in Rupganj, Sonargaon and Siddhirganj. After gaining popularity in Bangladesh, the Jamdani saree gained appeal in the Bengal region. Now Jamdani is considered one of the most adored Bengal sarees throughout India and Bangladesh, however, it was once thought to be a royal thing.

Speciality of Jamdani 

Jamdani is a cotton garment with a unique weaving method. They are made of a luxuriously soft fabric known as muslin. Muslin is one of the lightest, ancient and most delicate fabric available and also regarded as an art form in Bangladesh's weaving industry. So Jamdani is a fine muslin fabric on which ornamental designs are woven on a brocade loom using a supplementary weft technique. Even though many technological advancements have enhanced the nature of textile in the west, it is difficult to match the psychological satisfaction wearing the highest quality muslin while knowing that it was woven by hands.

Different Types of Jamdani Saree

Based on the region in which they are made, Jamdani sarees can be categorised.

1. Dhakai Jamdani Saree (Bangladesh): Out of all the handloom Jamdanis, the Dhakai Jamdani is the most popular and it is woven in Dhaka. These Jamdani sarees feature the most intricate craftsmanship and are the best and original. It could take nine months to a year to make one of these sarees.

2. Tangail Jamdani Saree (Bangladesh): This particular style of Jamdani is woven in the Tangail district of Bangladesh. These Tangail Sarees are well known for their floral designs and broad motifs.

3. Dhaniakhali Jamdani Saree (India): This type of Jamdani saree is woven in Dhaniakhali, West Bengal. These sarees are renowned for their tighter weave and vibrant border contrast.

4. Shantipur Jamdani Saree (India): These sarees are made in Shantipur, West Bengal. These sarees are similar to Tangail sarees. However, the utilisation of striped motifs and fine texture distinguishes them from the rest.

Price Range of Jamdani Saree

Jamdani weaving is a highly skilled, laborious, and time-consuming procedure that can take anywhere from a month to a year to complete a saree and this is the reason behind their expensive prices too. There are several types of Jamdani sarees but the whole hand-knitted jamdani is actually the real jamdani. The power loom Jamdani, on the other hand, isn't even a Jamdani. By weaving polyester yarn and copying Jamdani's design, it is being marketed for a low price. When used for a prolonged period of time, handloom Jamdani is more comfortable than polyester Jamdani. Depending on the fineness of the embroidery and the quality of the yarn, a Jamdani can cost anywhere between 35 USD and 2000 USD or more. 

Taking Care of Jamdani Saree

One of the few clothing items that really showcases handloom weaving is the Jamdani saree, which is why they need to be handled with special care. Dry-cleaning is the ideal method for maintaining Jamdani sarees. It retains their patterns as intricate and detailed as they are for years. The threads shift when they are hand or machine washed, resulting in damage that cannot be repaired. It is recommended to sometimes air Jamdani clothing to allow the fabric breathe properly to prevent the saree from fading. Additionally, spraying water while ironing Jamdani should be avoided because Jamdani cloth have a tendency to hold stains. When Jamdani sarees are properly cared for, they can last for decades or even generations!

     Jamdani is a symbol of aristocracy. The need for high-quality Jamdani sarees has grown significantly over time. Many people try to sell sarees that have mixed fabrics and fake patterns. In order to buy authentic sarees, you must get in touch with some original Bengali shops where you can find original Jamdani sarees in reasonable price.